As I mentioned before, you really need to use a proper seal press in order to seat the new seals in the front differential. I could buy one for around $100. But this is something I really wanted to make. I was recently trained on how to safely use a metal lathe down at the CWRU Thinkbox, so I wanted to give it a try and make one.
I designed the part in Fusion 360.
I went to a local hardware store, and they just happened to have a drop of some 2.75″ round bar that was just the size I needed for $12. I took an afternoon on the lathe, and with some help, was able to turn the piece that I needed. It took a while, but I think it was well worth it. Not only did I learn a lot, but I saved a bunch of money!
Spent a bunch of time working on the workshop soffit and fascia. I am using a product called MiraTEC. It is man made and is rot and moisture resistant. It cuts really nice. I took my time measuring and setting the angles so the miters would line up just right. I like how it is turning out.
I went out to Aurora, OH today to a Willys Flat Fender reunion. Some really nice specimens out there. I especially liked the restored trucks. If I could own one like the blue one, I would drive it every day I could.
Time to break down and start looking at replacing the front axle seals.
One of the new tools arrived recently, a case spreader. From past experience, I know that the front locker will not come out easily, or go back in at all, without the use of a case spreader. I couldn’t find where to rent one from, so I bought one off the eBays.
I wish I had bought one years ago.
The process removing the old seals is simple. Insert a piece of conduit into the axle tube and smack it out. Putting it back in, is a different story. I wanted to use a proper seal press. Buying one was only around $100. But making one would be more fun. I designed this in Fusion 360.
I started taking apart the CV joints. I need to use a brass punch (so I don’t dent the steel – the brass is softer) and manipulate the joint to get all the ball bearing out. Once out, the internal race can be removed and the joint cleaned out.
The axles are making a clicking noise while in 4WD and at full lock. Rebuilding the joints was the easiest option to seeing if it is the problem. If the clicking remains, at least I know the joints are in perfect order.
Time to take care of the front axle. There has been a leak on the passenger side from the internal seals. Plus, I want to rebuild the CV joints in the axle shafts. I’m still going to need a couple tools, but I might as well start taking it apart.